It is not a wet/dry joint like in Alexander’s post & rung chairs. Shaving them from long stock with a drawknife will get you good at shaving them from long stock with a drawknife…either way, make them dry, make them tapered. I say make your pins that way, and you’ll get good at ’em. You can often split it down to nearly the size you need. I find it really works, and splitting the stock is very easy in such short lengths. I adopted this method of shaving pins when I saw it in a sixteenth-century woodcut. Don’t think it’s him…but maybe need to look at Puddn’head Wilson again) (I figured it’s from Yip Harburg but on the web I’ve seen it attributed to Twain. Experience is the result of poor judgement.” “Good judgement is the result of experience. As far as my method requiring experience and skill, well…I am reminded of a quote I once heard the folksinger Claudia Schmidt repeat: But JA is working from stock that is easily 3 times the length I use. It doesn’t hurt to have a piece of scrap stock with a test-hole bored in it, and check your first dozen or so pins in that hole…typically beginners make the pins too stout.Īlexander points out that using a shaving horse & drawknife to make them makes the taper easier to achieve. They do have to fit the holes, but the taper in their length makes this easy enough to acheive. They are small-cross-sections, so dry quickly…but in any event, I always have several piles of them around – from green to dry. I split excess straight-grained oak into pin blanks and then store it around the shop. First & foremost, the moisture content of the pins – bone dry…gotta be. The post about making the pins for drawbored mortise & tenon joints brought a couple of comments, and a couple of questions.
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